
How to Winterize Your Outboard Engine
Winter will pass, and we will once again have the opportunity to enjoy the sound of the engine, the smell of the water, and getting out in nature with friends. To truly enjoy the beginning of the season, the equipment we use must be working properly. To keep the outboard engine working properly for as many seasons as possible, we need to dedicate a few hours to it in preparation for winter storage.
Although it is best to follow the instructions in your owner's manual, below we will discuss some procedures that you must follow when it comes to preparing for long-term storage.
Flush the engine and cooling system
We have also talked about the importance of this procedure in the article about engine maintenance. As a practical matter, small impurities can accumulate in the water and build up in various parts of the cooling system, causing clogs over time or reducing the flow of water needed for cooling.
Running the engine in salt water increases the risk of malfunction. Flushing the engine and cooling system is mandatory for proper operation.
The cooling system is very easy to clean. You will need to lift the engine and place the foot in a barrel (a bucket may suffice for smaller engines), making sure the water intake port is completely submerged in clean, fresh water. Then turn it on and let it run for a few minutes.
Draining the fuel line and cleaning the carburetor
After flushing the cooling system, do not stop the engine, disconnect the fuel line, and let it run until all the remaining fuel is burned.
Impurities in the fuel can build up and severely damage the fuel system. The problem is more serious with old generation 2-stroke engines where the oil/gasoline mixture is made manually. Over time, the oil and gasoline separate, and on the first start, the engine is not properly lubricated; there is a risk of defects that need to be repaired.
Once the engine stops, apply a carburetor/engine protection spray until everything is clean. Replace the fuel filter if necessary (this fuel filter model can be disassembled, washed, and reused) and check the fuel line, connector, and fuel pump for any problems.
Change the oil and filter
All manufacturers insist on this aspect of maintenance. It is very important to use quality oil that is specifically designed for outboard engines. It contains special additives that give it stability and maintain its performance in very humid environments.
Change the oil from the foot
This is probably the dirtiest of all the maintenance tasks when storing an outboard motor.
On your engine, you will notice two screws to drain the oil from the foot; one is at the bottom, the other is somewhere at the top, and the exact location of the screws may vary depending on the model.
Loosen both screws and wait for all the oil to drain.
Then fill the new oil into the foot. There are two options here, depending on what type you are using. The first option is to use a pump, and the second is to buy an oil that is packaged in a tube with a nozzle that flows directly into the foot.
It is ideal to insert the oil through the bottom hole until it starts to come out through the top hole. When it starts to come out the top, you need to remove the tube/pump and cover the hole (bottom) with a finger until you are ready to tighten the bolts again.
Cover and storage
The primary threat to all metal parts is corrosion. Make sure the engine is dry and stored in a well-ventilated area (in the position recommended by the manufacturer).
These are our tips to ensure that your first boat ride of the spring is an enjoyable one, without the stress caused by an engine that got "sick" during the winter.